Welcome to ZDHC’s
first impact report.
"It feels like only a short time ago since Greenpeace launched its Detox campaign in 2011, challenging leading brands in the fashion industry to publicly commit to reducing the discharge of hazardous chemicals to zero by 2020. The ZDHC Group has been answering that call".
ZDHC Board Chair
Introduction by Charles Dickinson, ZDHC Board Chair
With 2020 just around the corner, it is time to take stock of what the ZDHC community has achieved, and what still needs to be done to further reduce the chemical footprint of global textile production.
I’m pleased to report that, in the short time since ZDHC’s inception, we have shifted the paradigm in the apparel and footwear industry. We have moved from a reactive system that focuses on products and RSL testing, to a system that manages input chemistry through ZDHC’s Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL), thereby eliminating hazardous chemicals before they even get into the supply chain.
We have transformed the industry by creating a systems-approach for input management of chemicals. Our focus is holistically from production processes to products along with the output control (e.g. wastewater). We have enhanced the scope from consumer protection to protecting people’s well-being and environmental conditions in production regions across the globe.
Together with our community, we have laid the groundwork and set the strategy for brands, suppliers and other stakeholders in the supply chain to phase out the intentional use of hazardous chemicals. The results of the wastewater testing carried out by ZDHC Community shows that our approach is working: There is a significant reduction of discharge of hazardous chemicals over time into the environment by our community.
Greenpeace has endorsed ZDHC for contributing to a “significant improvement” by creating a meaningful programme which enables the effective collaboration between brands, suppliers and the chemicals industry. Greenpeace recognizes ZDHC’s potential to scale up the process they started and have commended us for continuously expanding and improving our toolkit. The NGO has decided to pause its Detox campaign in response to the significant improvements of the industry. However, ZDHC will keep up the momentum and accelerate the implementation of its sustainable chemical management framework.
We know that our work is far from done. As we reflect on what we’ve achieved over the past eight years, we’re also looking at the road ahead, as we continue our journey into 2020 and beyond. ZDHC began as a collaboration of just six fashion brands; today, our multi-stakeholder community of brands, manufacturers, chemical suppliers and solutions providers comprises more than 150 contributors. That’s significant growth, but it’s not enough. We want to increase the number of stakeholders who will commit to implementing the tools we’ve developed. We have identified our focus areas for the next 10 years to reduce the industries chemical footprint and drive sustainable chemistry into the apparel and footwear supply chain. To increase the impact we also need to spread the message to neighbouring supply chains of the textile and leather manufacturing industry. And, we will continue to build on our efforts to educate stakeholders in sustainable chemicals management and create greater consumer awareness about the work we’re doing to make the production of fashion and footwear safer for everyone.
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About ZDHC
How can we clean up the fashion industry’s complex supply chain? Here’s what we’ve achieved so far and where we’re headed.
Where we’ve come from.
In 2011, Greenpeace issued a wake-up call to the fashion industry, its stakeholders and consumers with the launch of its Detox campaign.
The campaign drew attention to the impact of hazardous chemicals in the manufacturing of clothing and footwear in production countries. Six brands individually signed public commitments with Greenpeace to commit to zero discharge of hazardous chemicals by 2020. This was the beginning of ZDHC’s Roadmap 2020 Programme.
In 2015, the ZDHC Foundation was established in Amsterdam with an updated vision of brands working collaboratively to implement sustainable chemistry, drive innovation and commit to best practices in the fashion industry to protect consumers, workers and the environment.
Who we are.
The ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Programme is a collaborative initiative of fashion brands, chemical suppliers, manufacturers and laboratories working to reduce the chemical footprint of apparel and footwear.
Together, we drive the global implementation of ZDHC’s sustainable chemical management framework and empower the global value chain to substitute or phase out hazardous chemicals in the production process and drive chemical and process innovation.
What we do.
We are advancing the apparel and footwear industry towards zero discharge of hazardous chemicals by:
a) Creating aligned, industry-endorsed guidelines and tools for sustainable chemical management
b) Driving effective implementation of these standards on the ground
c) Engaging a network of relevant stakeholders to empower every point of the supply chain to manufacture safer products
Who we work with.
The ZDHC Programme is a collaboration of 30 signatory brands, 101 value chain affiliates and 19 associates – all organisations that are active in the textile, apparel, leather and footwear industry. Our contributors are collaborating to develop and jointly implement ZDHC’s sustainable chemical management framework.
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Where we’re going.
Over the past eight years, we have put the sustainable chemical management framework in place to help the apparel and footwear industry eliminate hazardous chemicals from their supply chain.
But our job isn’t done yet. Today, we are focused on accelerating the use of our solutions worldwide. We are committed to leveraging the power of the ZDHC community to continue the transformation of the industry. And, we are prepared to share our learnings with sectors beyond the apparel and footwear industry.
"Stakeholder engagement is key to creating a green supply chain."
Article by Lydia Lin, ZDHC East Asia Regional Director
ZDHC East Asia Regional Director Lydia Lin says efforts to engage industry and government stakeholders are having a positive impact when it comes to detoxing China’s huge textile manufacturing sector.
"ZDHC offers tangible benefits to help our contributors effect real change."
Interview with Annie Francis, ZDHC Operations Director
ZDHC began with just six signatory fashion brands committing to detoxing their supply chains of hazardous chemicals. Less than a decade later, the ZDHC community has grown to include 30 signatory brands, over 100 value chain affiliates, and 19 associates. We asked Operations Director, Annie Francis, about what attracts companies to ZDHC, and how membership is helping to drive industry change.
“Esprit was among the first members of the ZDHC after its foundation. We believe that changing our industry is only possible in a joint approach, with common tools and procedures which we often share with our suppliers and everyone else to follow, to comply and to improve. This is how we want to ensure to move the industry into the right direction, in a systematic way.”
Mind-shift
A mind-shift in the apparel and footwear industry.
Together with our community, we at ZDHC have brought about a substantial mind shift in how the textile, apparel and footwear industries view chemicals management.
The focus used to be at the end of pipe, with consumer protection being the main concern. But over the past eight years, we have expanded that focus to include the beginning of pipe, and the protection not only of people all along the supply chain, but also of the environment in production regions. A key part of this mind shift has been the development of ZDHC’s manufacturing restricted substance list, or MRSL, that addresses which chemicals may be present during the manufacturing of products.
How we’ve achieved it
From RSL to MRSL
The mind shift in chemicals management has been achieved by developing and implementing a manufacturing restricted substance list, or MRSL. This is a list of chemical substances banned from intentional use in the facilities that process textiles, leather and footwear.
Before the ZDHC was formed in 2011, brands typically managed product safety through a restricted substance list, known as an RSL, which only addressed chemicals that may be present on finished products. Focusing on RSL compliance only meant that hazardous chemicals could be used in the manufacturing process, as long as they weren’t present above a certain concentration on the finished goods.
By introducing ZDHC’s MRSL, we have expanded the industry’s focus to manufacturing, in an effort to avoid hazardous chemicals even entering the supply chain. The textile manufacturers must commit to using chemicals that conform to our MRSL and chemicals manufacturers must also meet our requirements by testing and certifying that their formulations do not intentionally contain any of the chemicals listed in our MRSL.
"The implementation of roadmap to zero is verifiable."
Interview with Dr. Kirsten Brodde, Head of Detox Campaign - Greenpeace Germany
Read more about Greenpeace’s recommendations for the industry moving forward.
Read part 2 of the interviewRegional Director
Taking the ZDHC mind shift to South Asia’s textile industry
Article by Prasad Pant, ZDHC Regional Director for South Asia
ZDHC Regional Director for South Asia, Prasad Pant, says young, globally-minded business leaders are embracing change.
„What we most appreciate about ZDHC's approach to chemicals management is that we have a greater opportunity to engage with contributors to develop industry-wide standards. We also value the frequent follow up with contributors to design the ZDHC program.“
Groundwork laid for phase-out of intentional use by 2020
Together with our community, we have laid the groundwork and designed the roadmap for brands, suppliers and other stakeholders in the supply chain to advance towards the phase out the intentional use of hazardous chemicals by 2020.
We did this by jointly developing and collaboratively implementing industry-wide guidelines and standards and a comprehensive set of solutions like ZDHC’s Gateway, the Academy and the Implementation HUB. We have also created an approval process and a global network of third-party labs which are capable of testing all the wastewater parameters to ensure that our objectives are met. Additionally, we have created a public disclosure map to be more transparent about the programme impact and support reporting on the phase out of the use of chemicals in the supply chain.
The term “intentional use” refers to hazardous chemicals that are used intentionally in the textile supply chain to achieve a desired look or functionality. There is also unintentional use which may occur due to the fact that chemicals used in textile production are not as pure as those used in food or pharmaceutical products for example. ZDHC’s goal is to set purity standards that are high but also achievable. With this approach we have been successful. Recent tests (last 18 months) have shown that those facilities in the textile supply chain, that have committed to our standards and use our tools have almost completely phased out the intentional use of 11 priority chemical groups, defined by Greenpeace. 3 of those chemical groups, all of which are performance chemicals, are proving harder to replace for some manufacturers but here also much progress has been made and with continued effort and innovation they too are likely to be replaced soon by safe alternatives.
The ZDHC Toolbox
We have created chemical management tools which are designed to enable the industry to be more transparent about the use of chemicals in our value chain. They offer support in finding safer alternatives for the substitution of hazardous chemicals and help assess the performance of facilities in their efforts of implementing the ZDHC programme.
Chemical Module is the world’s first verified database of safer chemistry for the apparel and footwear industry. It enables suppliers to evaluate the ZDHC MRSL conformance level of chemical formulations used in production processes.
Wastewater Module is a global online platform to register and share verified wastewater test data against the ZDHC Wastewater Guidelines. Via the ZDHC Gateway - Wastewater Module, ZDHC continues to promote transparency in an opaque supply chain.
ZDHC InCheck Report is a universally accepted chemical inventory standard that enables suppliers to measure their input chemistry conformance via an online inventory assessment.
ZDHC ChemCheck is a ZDHC MRSL Conformity Certificate specifically for chemical formulators to use to prove the conformance of their products to their customers.
ClearStream gives suppliers a way to understand and communicate their laboratory’s wastewater test results. By doing so it helps them to position as a leader in striving for environmental protection.
The ZDHC Academy is the go-to training platform to create awareness, build knowledge and enable skills on sustainable chemical management and ZDHC tools along the textile, apparel, footwear (including leather) supply chains.
ZDHC Academy
At ZDHC, we’ve recognised that training the people working all along the fashion supply chain is essential for the changes we’re making to be effective. Even if you start with the best chemistry, you could still end up with a problem in wastewater or emissions if chemicals are used improperly, or the right processes aren’t followed.
New Accounts created on the ZDHC Academy Platform
ZDHC Accredited Training Providers
Total Training Participants
Different countries where trainings were held
Training sessions held
That’s why we created the ZDHC Academy in 2016, to serve as a training platform driving the implementation of our chemical management tools. We offer training across the entire value chain, including brands, retailers, manufacturers, tanneries and policy makers. We have a pool of accredited training providers who use certified training materials. Training sessions are available in local languages in all of the world’s key sourcing and retail regions, totalling nearly two dozen countries. We offer training modules that are tailor made for the participants, incorporating brand/retailer specific requirements, and we’re also developing new training modules to cover more subject areas and address target audiences in new places.
The Implementation HUB is the vehicle with which ZDHC is driving continuous improvements and progress around our offerings for brands, retailers and manufacturers with regard to baselining, strategy setting and implementation. The HUB leverages existing expertise and offers a platform to find ZDHC accredited experts for chemical and environmental management projects.
Our Impact
of signatory brands are committed to use the ZDHC MRSLby the Signatory Brand Leader Programme.
of signatory brands have implemented the ZDHC wastewater guidelines.
testing labs around the world have been approved by ZDHC to conduct accurate wastewater testing.
certification standards and testing labs around the world have been approved by ZDHC as MRSL Conformance Indicators.
In the last 18 months, the number of wastewater test reports published on ZDHC Gateway – Wastewater Module has increased by 40 fold, from 100 to 4,000 reports.
Less discharge of hazardous chemicals into the environment
Together with leading brands, governments and other multi-stakeholder organisations, we have created the most comprehensive, unified guidelines for wet processing facilities across the entire value chain - the ZDHC Wastewater Guidelines.
They go beyond regulatory compliance and help to ensure the discharge of treated wastewater does not adversely affect the environment and surrounding communities.
Product manufacturers are expected to use MRSL-compliant formulations. This is verified twice a year through wastewater testing at ZDHC-accredited laboratories. It’s important to note that wastewater testing is a snapshot in time. But it is a useful tool in demonstrating supply chain improvement and promoting transparency in manufacturing communities.
In the eight years since our founding, the ZDHC community has contributed to a significant reduction of discharge of hazardous chemicals into the environment. Analysis of the most recent wastewater testing data shows that 98% of facilities in our sample have no detections in the 11 hazardous chemical groups which reflects that those chemicals are no longer intentionally used by the ZDHC community. However, some chemicals show up in sludge rather than wastewater, so the overall picture is incomplete until sludge is included in the evaluation.
Recent wastewater data analysis shows..
Recent consecutive wastewater testing (last 18 months) shows that on average 98 % of the facilities that are following our guidelines and solutions and using our tools have met the requirements or have no detections in MRSL analytes.
The wastewater results show a significant improvement in performance over time. Most of the 11 priority chemical groups are no longer intentionally used by the ZDHC Community.
There are three groups that slightly diverge from the trend: PFCs, APEOs and Halogenated Solvents. We believe this to be due to the fact that a) some brands use PFCs to make water repellent fabrics b) APEOs are ubiquitous and are commonly used to clean equipment and c) halogenated solvents are used in a number of applications including machinery cleaning and degreasing. However, over the last 18 months, facilities made good progress in eliminating detections in these three groups.
The presence of hazardous chemicals in wastewater, in small frequencies, could be due to industrial cross-contamination and chemical impurities, among other factors.
The 11 priority groups of hazardous chemicals were only the starting point, chosen because the scientific evidence of their toxicity was so strong that NGO’s saw an immediate need to prioritize their phase out. Today, ZDHC’s MRSL (Manufacturing Restricted Substances List) includes the relevant substances from the original 11 chemical groups, along with additional substances, based on discussions with qualified experts from the ZDHC’s former Technical Advisory Committee (TAC), and member brands. Here’s an overview of the original 11 priority groups, why they’re hazardous, and where we the ZDHC community stands on their elimination from the supply chain, based on recent wastewater testing data.
Read Full Interview with Dr. Kirsten Brodde
"Brand demand drives chemicals innovation."
Interview with Dr. Volker Schröder, TEGEWA
Interview with Dr. Volker Schröder – TEGEWA, Association of Manufacturers of Process and Performance Chemicals Producers
ZDHC Programme Director
"The ZDHC Gateway - A database for safer chemistry"
Article by Scott Echols,
ZDHC Programme Director
ZDHC’s MRSL is just one list of chemicals of concern and related restrictions. Across the fashion industry, there are many more such lists. Tracking and managing these lists to ensure compliance can be an overwhelming task for manufacturers and suppliers. ZDHC’s Gateway Chemical Module offers a positive solution, giving companies trustworthy information about chemicals that are safe to use.
Our job isn’t done yet
Interviews with ZDHC Team
"Our ultimate mission: clean water, clean air, safe workers and safe products."
ZDHC Executive Director
What are ZDHC’s priorities going forward, and how does it plan to scale up its achievements? ZDHC Executive Director Frank Michel takes a look at the road ahead.
Interview with Frank Michel,
ZDHC Executive Director
ZDHC’s Roadmap to Zero Program originally set 2020 as a milestone in the phasing out of hazardous chemicals. With 2020 around the corner, how far has the community come in achieving its objectives, and how are you planning to pursue your goals going forward?
At this milestone, we are celebrating that we’ve created awareness about the need to phase out hazardous chemicals, that we now have a community in place that is largely scalable, and that we have representation in the main production regions. We’re also celebrating a shift from the finite 2020 goal, to an infinite roadmap to zero program.
We haven’t yet accomplished everything we set out to achieve back in 2011, but we are going to continue with an increasing number of brands, a rapidly growing community, and a firm commitment to advance towards zero discharge.
What is the top priority for ZDHC now?
Now that we’ve achieved awareness and have our Sustainable Chemical Management Framework in place, our next challenge is to scale implementation. Representation is a key component in that, which is why we’re focusing on leveraging local workforce consultants, training more trainers, and working with local authorities to endorse ZDHC standards. That’s also why we’re introducing our leader programs, such as our Signatory Brand Leader Program, which measures and assesses the joint implementation of our chemical management framework among our signatory brands. The other key element in scaling up implementation is convergence.
What does that involve?
Convergence is about brands and manufacturers aligning around ZDHC MRSL and reducing duplication of efforts. At the moment, manufacturers are being asked to comply with multiple MRSLs from organisations. And while they may be acting with good intention, the result is duplication of efforts. What manufacturers want is to have one standard for compliance, and this is where our brand program convergence comes into play. Just recently, three big players – Levis, H&M and Inditex – converged their individual initiatives toward ZDHC’s program, and we’re hoping more brands will follow suit. It’s our hope that convergence will lead to a mind shift among manufacturers away from implementing ZDHC standards merely in response to customer requests, to implementing for purpose. And by that I mean our ultimate mission: clean water, clean air, safe workers and safe products.
ZDHC has also committed to engaging and educating other stakeholders. What form will those efforts take going forward?
We know that we’re not working in isolation; we also have neighbour supply chains. If you look at leather for example, we’re working with tanneries that are also producing for the automotive industry. We’re working with fabric mills which also produce for work wear or home textile brands. So looking at the ZDHC program, of course we want to educate the neighbour supply chain in order to reduce cross contamination from their products into the apparel and footwear sector.
In terms of global relevance of the program, we’re working with organisations such as the United Nations’ environmental program and the Organisation for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD) with their sustainable development goals. This helps to educate policy makers as well as other industries on the concept of controlling chemical input and hopefully scaling our Sustainable Chemical Management Framework, beyond the textile and footwear industry.
What makes you optimistic that ZDHC can achieve its goals?
What makes me optimistic is my childhood. As a boy growing up in Germany, I used to play in a deserted factory site, and I saw the chemical drums lying around – this was in the middle of Europe! And when I look now at the production countries for the apparel industry, I see more or less the same circumstances. Most of Europe has since been cleaned up, and it wasn’t rocket science. It was awareness and a smart mix of both regulation and industry initiative to better manage the chemistry and to take care of the environment. Because at the end of the day, we’re all drinking the same water and breathing the same air. By diverting production into far away countries, we’re not eliminating the problem – we still share the same planet after all. But now in China, for instance, I’m seeing that there is increasing awareness about air and water pollution, and as a result, stricter regulations. And I’m optimistic that this will also be the case in other production countries.
“Detox is still tackled separately without considering connections to other environmental and social issues, such as water and energy saving or biodiversity. A more holistic approach is needed. The strong engagement in an industry initiative should also facilitate collective action on other environmental issues.”
Our job isn't done yet.
Of the 11 priority chemical groups originally identified by Greenpeace, 3 groups of performance chemicals are proving harder to substitute than the rest. While some manufacturers have already phased them out, others are finding it particularly challenging to come up with equally effective substitutions. Wastewater testing shows that substantial progress has already been made by the ZDHC community to reduce their impact and with continued effort and innovation these 3 remaining hazardous groups are likely to be replaced soon. They are APEOs, Phthalates and PFCs. Here’s a description of why they’re used, why they’re harmful and their current status.
The 3 hazardous chemical groups that still present a challenge
Alkylphenols &
ethoxylates (APEOs)
Why are they used?
Alkylphenol ethoxylates are a group of chemicals that are used in many textile and leather applications. APEO’s can be used as or found in:detergents, scouring agents, spinning oils, wetting agents, softeners, emulsifier/dispersing agents for dyes and prints, impregnating agents, de- gumming for silk production, dyes and pigment preparations, polyester padding and down/feather fillings.
How toxic are they?
APEOs can degrade into alkylphenols and some are very toxic to aquatic life with long lasting effects. In addition, some are suspected of damaging human fertility and unborn children.
What’s their status?
There are many high-performing, cost-effective safer alternatives to APEOs. Due to European regulations, some chemical companies, mostly based in Europe, do not make APEO’s anymore for textile applications. It may not be straightforward to eliminate APEO’s from the leather and textile supply chains by 2020 due to their ubiquitous presence, their use in non-textile related functions, such as washing drums and janitorial work, and the fact that they are not regulated in all countries that produce apparel.
Phthalates
Why are they used?
Phthalates can be present on finished products, including apparel and leather, partly because they may be present in some printing inks to provide a specific hand. They are intentionally added to the product by the textile manufacturer.
How toxic are they?
Phthalates are hormone disruptors. Small amounts can have a big effect on human health and the environment. Exposure to phthalates has been associated with: Asthma attention-deficit hyperactivity disorder, breast cancer, obesity and type II diabetes, low IQ, neuro-developmental issues, behavioural issues, autism spectrum disorders, altered reproductive development and male fertility issues.
What’s their status?
Brands have really stepped up and many have implemented usage bans for a selection of phthalates. Many brands have a usage ban or no intentional use on phthalates on both their RSL and MRSL.
Poly-and Perfluorinated chemicals (PFCs)
Why are they used?
Perfluorinated and polyfluorinated chemicals (PFCs and PFASs) are a group of chemicals that provide durable water repellency and stain management properties to textiles and leather.
How toxic are they?
Some PFCs are persistent, bioaccumulative and toxic. PFOA and PFOS are very toxic to aquatic organisms and may cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic environment. PFOA and PFOS have the potential to bioaccumulate in humans and other mammals. Above certain exposure levels, PFOA and PFOS primarily affect the liver, may impair human fertility, or cause harm to unborn children. PFOA and PFOS may result in the development of cancer above certain exposure levels.
What’s their status?
The brand response has been varied between fashion and outdoor brands given that outdoor brand products benefit from DWR technology. Many RSLs have PFOA and PFOS and the MRSL has expanded this list to additional long chain PFCs. This is due in part, because both PFOA and PFOS are under the scrutiny of regulators. Many brands have committed to eliminating long chain PFCs; however non-fluorinated products do not provide oil repellency and hence the journey is hard. It could be very difficult to meet the 2020 deadline due to the lack of suitable alternatives that provide the required functionality.
"The search for safer
replacement chemicals"
Article by Lydia Lin, ZDHC Regional Director
"Empowering manufacturers to phase out harmful chemicals listed on the MRSL is just one side of the coin. To truly move toward an era of sustainable chemical management in the apparel and footwear industry without compromising on product quality, innovation is needed to develop safe replacement chemicals. Here, we look at how that process is working for one large-volume chemical group in China."
“We have participated in several technical conference sessions organized by ZDHC in China in recent years, and have been meeting more and more customers – including end users such as H&M, C&A, and Inditex – who are committed to offering eco-friendly synthetic leather to the market. ZDHC has built up a great platform for information exchange throughout the whole synthetic leather value chain. By communicating with end users, we can understand their concerns about hazardous chemicals in phasing out DMF-based synthetic leather. They can share with us their requirements and expectations in terms of product performance, and we can share our progress in solvent-free polyurethane research work. We are optimistic about growing market acceptance in the coming years, and we appreciate ZDHC's great efforts and initiatives in the DMF phase-out campaign.”
China is now on its way to creating a green supply chain for its sizeable synthetic leather industry, thanks to industry consensus on the need to replace dimethyl fumarate (DMF), says ZDHC East Asia Regional Director Lydia Lin. DMF is commonly used in the production of polyurethane (PU) coated synthetic leathers, but it has proven hazardous to human health.
In 2012, DMF was listed by the EU as a Substance of Very High Concern (SVHC). Many fashion brands searching for an alternative have found an acceptable alternative, together with their suppliers of synthetic leather. As a result, several major firms have required the removal of DMF from their supply chains, with deadlines ranging from 2020 to 2025.
“ZDHC had also listed DMF as a hazardous substance in need of alternative development. With more companies getting involved, and with cooperation and dialogue within the sector, production of DMF-free alternatives, such as water-based synthetic leather and solvent-free synthetic leather, grew by 120% and 40% respectively from 2015 by May of last year. We expect that to continue,” said Lin.
Manufacturers who were quick to make the switch to DMF-free alternatives say they now have an edge over their competition. “After joining ZDHC, we were convinced that water-based PU is the main trend in our market,” said Zhang Feng, vice general manager of Kunshan XiefuNew Material Technology. “We invested in our Nantong plant to produce water-based PU, and now more and more brands such as Zara and H&M are choosing this to replace traditional PU coating, so we have a great competitive advantage at present.
Tian Jingyan, the vice general-secretary of China’s processing industry association, CPASL, agrees that the focus on DMF-free alternatives is having a big impact on China’s synthetic leather industry. “After the collaboration with ZDHC, with the push from brands and the investment and technology development effort along the supply chain, if you compare figures from 2015 to now, we can say that China is on the path to setting up a green supply chain in the synthetic leather industry. Water-based PU is estimated to increase 600 percent, and solvent-free PU is estimated to increase 460 percent.”
Progress on PFCs
Lin says the effort to replace PFCs (per- and polyfluorinated compounds, used to make fabrics water and stain repellent) also stands out as a strong example of how ZDHC brands are joining together to phase out hazardous chemicals.
“Many ZDHC brands have committed to the PFC ban, and Greenpeace’s report on the effects of its Detox campaign shows that many brands have either phased out or are close to phasing out PFCs. I have seen how many new technologies have been developed after the ZDHC brands announced their PFC phase-out strategy,” she said.
Engage, Educate, Expand our work to create an even stronger community
We want to make safe products the norm – everywhere. We are reaching out to companies and organizations to share our vision and ambition for the future. To do this effectively we will continue to expand our collaborative multi-stakeholder approach:
- We will provide information to consumers about chemicals used in the textile, apparel and footwear (including leather) supply chain.
- We will continue to develop, refine and share valuable tools for suppliers to help them implement best chemical management practices that will improve their processes and become industry standards.
- We will provide on-going guidance and support to brands located in the retail fashion sector and execute action plans to achieve widespread implementation.
- We will continue to identify and seek engagement opportunities with key stakeholders and partners. We will spread the word, share our work, educate others and promote the drive towards safer chemicals and cleaner supply chains across all industries. Our goal is to continuously increase our credibility and relevance on both a local and global level.
The next milestones
We have identified our focus areas for the next 10 years to drive even better chemical management, more deeply into the supply chain. Our objectives and goals include:
By 2022, initiatives and brand programs will be converged. Through collaboration, we are spearheading the convergence of initiatives and brand programmes to reduce complexity, minimize duplication, avoid confusion and enhance the speed and scale.
By 2025, we will expand our organization and create an infrastructure in other relevant textiles regions including Europe, Africa, Asia and the Americas.
By 2030, our mission will be to ensure ZDHC safeguards a supply chain free from hazardous chemicals. Our work will be cemented and will be considered as normal business practices rather than best practices!
ZDHC Southern Europe Regional Director
"Convergence and sustainable chemistry are the future focus in Europe"
Interview with Alessandra Tortora, ZDHC’s Regional Director for Europe
As ZDHC’s Regional Director for Southern Europe, Alessandra Tortora is working to grow the ZDHC community, and improve convergence among its members. At the same time, she’s keen to promote opportunities for innovation among the manufacturers of chemicals, as Europe moves toward even greater sustainable chemical management.
“We expect ZDHC to work towards greater cost effectiveness of waste water testing. Currently some brands still require separate tests resulting in duplication of effort and unnecessary expenditure. Also we are in favour of one common harmonized lab testing methodology to evaluate all results.”
"Work together and keep pushing the level of ambition"
Interview with Dr. Kirsten Brodde, Greenpeace Germany